CS "TTL" Tobin Time Lapse
Time Lapse & Animation Motor for Bolex
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A True Motor Driven Unit.
Shoot 100 or 400 feet without winding. This
is not merely a trigger, it prevents the varying exposure time you would
otherwise get as the clockwork spring winds down, and the winding up
of the spring again which can disturb the setup. The film is driven by
a DC servo gearmotor, which eliminates the vibration and high current
drain of the stepping motor drives found in other brands.
The TTL runs at a regulated .75 FPS (frames per second) or 32 times slower than
24 FPS. Exposure compensation needed is 5 F stops or 1.5 ND (neutral density). |
Wide
Timing Range
"Seconds" range
gives from about 2 to 60 seconds per frame. "Minutes" range
gives from about 1 to 60 minutes per frame. The interval timing
is by a high frequency oscillator, digitally divided for stability.
Timing for the next frame does not start until the previous frame
is finished, to prevent missing frames at short intervals.
Normal or Long Exposures
"Normal" gives a fixed 3/8 second exposure. "Long
Exposure" mode stops with the shutter open, for extremely dim subjects
such as stars or moonlit scenes.
Animation Mode
Plugging in the remote release cable provided changes over to
manual mode. To prevent mistakes, exposure is unaffected by any of the Time
Lapse mode switch and knob settings. Tap the switch on the remote cable to
expose a
single frame, or hold the button down for continuous run.
Wind and Rewind modes
Run through leader, or rewind for multiple exposures, at a faster 1.25 FPS
(frames per second) rate. This speed can also be used
for filming, bearing in mind that it is not stabilized and will vary with battery
voltage. The TTL is spaced 1/2" away from the camera body for fingertip
access to the frame counter reset knobs, and it does not block the frame and
footage counter windows. Note that Rewind cannot be used with the 400' magazine
as this will not run in reverse.
General
Operates on 12.6 volts DC with an
allowable range of 11 to 14.4 volts, via an industry-standard XLR 4-pin connector.
An "Accessory" jack can
power a takeup motor for the 400' magazine, or a relay box (see below) to turn
lights on for exposure. Construction is CNC machined die-cast aluminum, with
finish in "Steel Grey" powdercoat and with silk-screened legends.
An automatic-reset circuit protector is built-in. Case size is 3.7" x
4.7" and
protrusion from the camera body is 3-3/4". Weight is 1 lb. 2 oz. or about
0.5 kg. A comprehensive 4-page instruction manual gives installation and operation
hints, and suggested starting points for intervalometer settings for clouds,
stars, etc.
Requires 1:1 Drive
Shaft
The 1:1 shaft is found on cameras made
since about 1965, including the H-16 Rex-4 serial number 210601 and higher;
the H-16 M-4
serial number 214401 and higher; the H-16 S-4 serial number 221201 and higher;
and the H-8 Rex-4 serial number 212401 and higher. All Rex-5, M-5, SB and
SBM cameras have the 1:1 drive shaft. The 1:1 shaft is to the left
of the film
plane mark f and above and to the right of the I-T selection knob. Your camera
has the 1:1 shaft if it has the rectangular base, I-T selection
by a knob and not by a lever, and
two
drive shafts on the side.
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Installation and use: |
NOTE: This motor requires that your camera
have the 1:1 drive shaft.
The 1:1 shaft is found on cameras made since about 1965, including
the H-16 Rex-4 serial number 210601 and higher; the H-16 M-4
serial number 214401 and higher; the H-16 S-4 serial number 221201
and higher; and the H-8 Rex-4 serial number 212401 and higher.
All Rex-5, M-5, SB and SBM cameras have the 1:1 drive shaft.
The 1:1 shaft is to the left of the film plane mark f and above
and to the right of the I-T selection knob.
Attaching the motor to the camera
1A. First prepare the camera for motor attachment by following these steps.
Also, if the headless filler screws are still installed in the motor mounting
holes, remove and save them:
1. Turn the camera's MOT lever to O to disengage the clockwork spring. If excessive
resistance is felt, push the camera's release button at the same time.
2. Remove the spring winding handle by hinging it over as if to wind the spring,
but turn it clockwise instead of counter-clockwise. It has a left-hand thread
and will unscrew. If it is stuck, add penetrating oil.
3. Set the speed dial to 64 or higher, fully clockwise.*
4. Lock the release slide in the M (lock-run) position to the left.
5. On H-16 Rex models with a variable shutter, remove the Rexofader if present,
and lock the variable shutter in the top (fully open) 0 position.
6. It does not matter which position the I-T knob is set in; it has no effect
with an external motor drive.
Warning: Failure to follow these steps can result in motor or camera damage,
or inferior film. The motor's circuit protector, or automatic reset circuit breaker,
may not act in time to prevent damage.
*Actually it makes little or no difference what speed is set on the camera speed
dial for use with the TTL time lapse motor. The speed dial setting instruction
must be followed for attaching other motors, however, so it is repeated here
for consistency, in case the speed dial resetting is overlooked when switching
to a different motor.
1B. Note that it is not possible to manually turn the output shaft of the TTL
motor. This is because there is a 60:1 gear ratio between the internal motor
and the shaft.
1. Observe that the camera 1:1 shaft has two different sizes in the two ends
of the drive shaft pin. If possible, manually advance the camera mechanism with
a rewind crank so the wider end of the pin, and the red dot, are uppermost. This
is approximately the position the TTL motor stops in with normal settings. The
1:1 shaft is the one to the left of the film plane mark f.
2. Lay the camera down on a soft surface, with the camera door side down.
3. Place the TTL drive shaft over the camera shaft so the camera's drive shaft
pin aligns with the slots in the TTL drive shaft.
4. Rotate the entire motor as needed to get it into the normal mounting position.
5. Engage and tighten the three attaching screws just finger tight. It is not
necessary or desirable to use a wrench as the motor driving torque is quite low
at the TTL's operating speed, and over-tightening can damage the screws or the
camera.
Powering
The TTL requires 12.6 volts DC for operation. Current draw is quite low, suitable
for long-term unattended operation on battery power. Connection is with the industry
standard "XLR" type 4-pin male receptacle, and with the industry standard
polarity of pin 1 negative (--) and pin 4 positive (+). Acceptable range is 11
to 14.4 volts.
Current drain between exposures is 15 mA (.015 Ampere.) During
exposure the starting current is briefly 800 mA and average current drain is
under 70 mA using the
TTL motor alone. If accessories are used the current requirement will increase
accordingly. Using a 7 AH (ampere-hour) lead-acid battery, you should be able
to run 100 feet of 16mm film in time-lapse mode on a full battery charge if the
interval is 5 minutes per frame or less.
To run from commercial AC power, a filtered and regulated DC power supply is
required. For proper operation, the voltage must not sag below 11 volts with
800 mA drain, or rise above 14.4 volts with no load.
Controls and Connectors
The main function switch is marked Rewind, Off, Normal and Wind.
Off means that no power is reaching the circuitry. The motor will stop in a random
position if it was running at the time it was switched to Off.
Normal is used for intervalometer and animation. It will run the same speed and
stop in the same position each time.
Wind is used to forward the film more rapidly than normal, for running off leader
etc. This position can be used for continuous filming, bearing in mind
that the speed, approximately 1.25 FPS, is not regulated and will vary with battery
voltage, and that the camera will stop in a random position.
Rewind moves the film in reverse, for backing up the film for double exposures
etc. It should not be used for filming since the Bolex uses a different claw
in reverse, which can cause unsteadiness and a displaced frameline. The speed
is the same as Wind, about 1.25 FPS. To rewind for a double exposure, cap the
lens or close the variable shutter and back up the film a few frames more than
wanted. Then go forward a few frames to the correct starting point, uncap the
lens or open the shutter, and resume filming. Refer to the frame counter and
your notes, to avoid confusion. Note that Rewind cannot be used with the 400'
magazine as it will not run in reverse.
The Time Lapse knob selects the interval between exposures and is continuously
variable.
The Minutes-Seconds switch selects Seconds when down in that position and Minutes
when up in that position.
The Normal-Long Exposure switch selects Normal exposure time, about 3/8 second,
when down in that position and Long Exposure when up in that position. Use Normal
unless shooting in very dim light. See the Exposure section. When you switch
between positions the next frame may not be exposed correctly.
The Animation jack accepts a 3.5mm remote plug. Inserting the plug defeats the
three previous controls and gives a fixed 3/8 second exposure, with frames exposed
manually.
The Accessory jack is for connecting a torque motor for shooting 400 foot film
lengths in the magazine, or for connecting a relay box for turning on exposure
lights each time a frame is exposed, in Normal or Wind.
Film Loading
Many Bolexes will probably be used for animation and time-lapse cinematography
by owners of other cameras who have not used a Bolex before.
This section is
intended for them:
The Bolex has automatic threading when using the normal camera spools. To utilize
this, you will remove the spool from the container in subdued light. Remove the
camera lid. If you want to check the film gate for dirt and hairs, open the gate,
unscrew the gate from the post and pull it out. Blow out the debris. Replace
the gate and don't forget to close it fully. Remove the spool from its can or
container. Place the spool on the upper spindle with the free film end hanging
on the right, so it will unwind clockwise. If the leading end of the film has
a point on it, trim it square with the little cutter inside the film compartment.
(This is necessary to prevent the point from catching in the gate during automatic
threading and causing a film jam.) Close the automatic loop formers by moving
the lever down until it clicks. Run the motor in the "Wind" mode. Feed
the leading end of the film into the upper sprocket. The film will follow the
loop formers through the gate and then emerge from the lower sprocket. You can
then push the button in the middle of the loop former lever so the loop formers
will pop open. Observe that the upper and lower loops are present and not hitting
anything. After enough film has emerged, stop the motor and insert the film end
into the slot of the empty takeup spool. Wind the spool clockwise and pop it
into place on the lower reel spindle. Replace the camera lid.
Cap or cover the lens to prevent confusion and wasted effort later, and run the
motor for about another four feet until the footage counter reads "0." The
film manufacturers have allowed for subdued-light loading and unloading by selling
you an actual 109 feet of 16mm film on the nominal 100 foot spool. After the
counter reaches "100," cap the lens again and run the camera for about
another four feet until you hear the tail end of the film go through. Stop the
motor, open the camera lid, place the full spool in the container, and send it
off for processing. The now-empty supply spool becomes the takeup spool for the
next load of film.
With the H-8 8mm camera, the film is turned over and run through once more, no
more and no less, to expose both halves of the film. After processing it is slit
to make 25 feet into 50, or 100 feet into 200. Each pass, you must have the light
sensitive emulsion side facing towards the lens. The 25 foot spools have 33 feet
of film, an extra 4 feet on each end.
Some causes of fogged film: Loading the camera in light that is not sufficiently
subdued. Filming with the reflex finder blind open but with your eye not behind
the eyepiece. Filming with no gelatin filter holder in place. Filming in Super-16
which is much more sensitive to edge fog and should be loaded and unloaded in
even more subdued light. Not running off enough film before you start shooting.
Letting the camera stop with the shutter open in bright light when using the
H-8 8mm camera, which can fog the opposite half of the film.
Time Lapse (Intervalometer) Operation
In the Time Lapse mode, the TTL will automatically time the exposures over a
very wide 1800:1 range. In the "Seconds" mode, the intervals are adjustable
from under 2 up to about 60 seconds. In the "Minutes" mode, the intervals
are multiplied by 64 to give a range of under 1 up to about 60 minutes. The speed
dial has logarithmically spaced increments, for a wide (about 100:1) range on
the dial. The timing for starting the next exposure is not begun until the previous
frame is finished, to prevent missing frames when a short interval is chosen.
By default, with nothing plugged into the "Animation" socket, the TTL
motor is in the Time Lapse mode. To run the camera, set the main function switch
to "Normal." It will automatically expose frames of film at the
selected interval. The running speed is about .75 frame per second (FPS,) 45
frames per minute, or 32 times slower than normal 24 FPS filming. See the Exposure
section for more information.
If you are shooting in very dim light, you can select the "Long Exposure" switch
position. This will cause the camera to stop each time with the shutter open
instead of closed. The exposure time becomes the interval between exposures,
minus about one second. That is, if your interval is 6 seconds the exposure time
will be 5 seconds. If your interval is 60 seconds, the exposure time will be
59 seconds. This is useful for very dim subjects such as stars or moonlit landscapes.
Note that you MUST NOT change the interval dial or switch when filming the same
subject and location, or else this will cause sudden exposure shifts or flicker
in the film. See the note below about reciprocity failure correction.
Here are some starting points for experimenting with time lapse (or intervalometer)
filming:
Sunsets — 2 seconds at .75 FPS normal speed, or perhaps instead use
the 1.25 — FPS "Wind" speed. Use "Normal" exposure.
Clouds — 4 to 7 seconds. Use "Normal" exposure.
Stars — 45 to 60 seconds. Use "Long Exposure" setting.
Construction — 60 minute intervals will make an entire day pass in one second,
at 24 FPS. Use "Normal" exposure unless the light
is very dim.
Surveillance — Use "Animation" mode
with remote release. In case of suspicious behavior, you can film for 89 minutes
on 100
feet of 16mm film and normally capture the entire event.
Various Subjects — Most fall in the range of 2
up to 30 seconds.
Animation Photography
This operation mode is entered by plugging in the remote release switch. This
causes a number of internal changes, including automatically setting the "Normal" exposure
mode and disconnecting the timer.
Make a single exposure by briefly tapping the remote switch. If you hold the
switch down, the motor will continue to run. This is useful for doing a "freeze
frame" as additional filming in continuous running will have the same exposure
as actual single frames. Use the camera's frame counter to keep track of things.
You can back up the film for multiple exposures by using the "Rewind" position
on the main function switch. The cable provided is 3 feet long, and it can be
extended by using a 3.5mm microphone extension cable.
Correcting Exposure
The TTL runs at .75 FPS in the Animation mode, or in Time Lapse mode with the "Normal" exposure
position, regardless of the interval between exposures. This is 32 times slower
than normal filming at 24 FPS.
The physical exposure time is 1/2 of a second at .75 FPS. To get the same exposure
at .75 FPS as you would at 24 FPS, you need to either close down the lens aperture
by 5 stops, or insert a 1.5 ND (neutral density) filter in the light path.
For setting your light meter, remember that the reflex Bolex Rex, SB and SBM
cameras have a physical exposure time of 1/66 second at 24 FPS, and the light
diverted to the reflex finder makes the exposure setting equivalent to about
1/85 second. At .75 FPS the effective exposure time is 3/8 of a second, which
is 32 times longer. Since few movie light meters show an FPS rate of 40 FPS (which
would give the same exposure with the average camera as a Bolex Rex gives at
24 FPS,) it is often necessary to fudge on the meter's ASA speed setting.
A. If you are using ASA 100 film in your Bolex, you could set 64 ASA in your
light meter, setting it also to 24 FPS (1/50 second assumed) and get good exposure. If
you then insert a 1.50 ND filter in the light path, the exposure should now be
correct at the .75 FPS speed of the TTL motor. If you can not find a 1.50ND filter,
correct the meter's ASA setting as follows if using ASA 100 film: If 1.0 ND,
set ASA 200. If 2.0 ND, set ASA 20.
B. Another possibility is to pretend you are using a much higher film sensitivity
than reality, to allow for the filming rate difference. If you are using ASA
100 film in your Bolex, you could enter a film ASA rating of 2000 and 1/50 second,
and directly read the required aperture for actually filming at .75 FPS with
the TTL motor. This will work best in rather dim light.
It is preferable to use ND (Neutral Density) filters instead of stopping down
the lens to very small openings. This is because a lens used at a very small
opening, say smaller than (i.e., a bigger number than) F/11 will usually give
a loss of sharpness and contrast owing to light diffraction effects.
You can film from a mixed assortment of video and computer monitors with the
TTL. The long exposure time will minimize the flicker and roll bar by exposing
each frame of video many times. For this to work you will have to slow down the
computer program by some 32 times so it will come out the right speed on the
film.
With very long exposure times, over one second, the sensitivity of the film becomes
less because of an effect called "reciprocity failure." Consult the
film's data sheet for specifics. With many films, if the light meter calls for
a 10 second exposure per frame, you will need to actually give 30. If the meter
calls for 30 seconds, you will need to actually give 150. This correction is
not needed if you can increase the intensity of light reaching the film instead
of the duration, to make the indicated exposure time less than one second. That
is, use more light or a larger (smaller number) F stop.
In Case of Difficulty.
If the motor runs in the wrong direction in Wind or Rewind, and does not run
at all in Normal, your DC polarity is reversed. Swap the connections to the battery.
If the circuit protector trips, which will only occur in case of major failure
or abuse, it will reset itself if you turn off the power and let it cool for
a few minutes. Normal operation should then resume.
If the torque motor is not getting enough voltage to take up film tightly enough
in the 400 foot magazine, your technician can remove the TTL cover and install
the shorting jumper at the top of the circuit board so that it is linking the
two pins. Use care as the drive shaft and spring will fall out when the unit
is disassembled. The voltage is restored to its original setting by installing
the jumper on only one pin, not linking the two. Reassembly of the motor takes
patience as the drive parts and four captive screws must all be correctly aligned
at the same time.
A very few early Bolex type 4 (Rex-4 etc.) cameras may have left the factory
with a drive pin lacking the wide and narrow coding. In this case, you will have
to attach the TTL and then verify, by turning the lens turret and looking in
the film gate, that the motor is stopping in the correct position, that is with
the shutter closed in Normal, and open in Long Exposure.
Tricky remote control hint if needed: Use a 3-conductor "stereo" shielded
3.5mm cable. Use two switches at the other end. Linking Ring to Sleeve will switch
from Time Lapse to Animation mode. Linking Tip to Sleeve will then run the camera
for either single frames or continuous run.
The accessory jack has pins 1 and 4 negative (--) and 2 and 3 positive (+) at
about 8 volts when running.
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