Braun Nizo Differences |
There are several differences in NIZO camera models over the
years.... and it would be a long explanation. The NIZO models
S-480, S-560 & S-800
are earlier cameras made about 1973/74. The NIZO models S-481,
S-561 and S-801 came out in late 1974/early 1975. These were
later changed once again by 1976/77 to S-481 macro, S-561 macro & S-801
macro.
The differences are: S-480 & S-481 both have an 8mm to 48mm
F/1.8 Schneider 2-speed zoom lens S-560 & S-561 both have a
7mm to 56mm F/1.8 Schneider 2-speed zoom lens S-800 & S-801
both have a 7mm to 80mm F/1.8 Schneider 2-speed zoom lens.
The entire above cameras feature: single frame, 18fps, 24fps,
and instant slow motion at 54fps. They have a built-in intervalometer
for time lapse filming from 1 fps to 1 frame per minute. The
have a manual variable shutter that can be locked in the half-closed
position, and also can be locked in the fully open position to
make time exposures per frame up to one minute via the intervalometer,
or manually up to whatever time you select. They also have a
flash synch PC contact, 5 pin DIN for synch-sound via NIZO cable,
electric remote release, cable release, lock run setting, F-Stop
display in the viewfinder with over/under warning, Film transport
red LED/lamp (also acts as end-of-film signal), F-Stop display
also doubles as battery power level indicator for both drive
and meter batteries, Lap Dissolve button for 54 frame lap dissolve
which automatically fades out... rewinds film... fades in again
when re-filming, removable battery pack for the drive batteries,
and came with two eyecups... a large one and a small one. ONLY
the S-800 and S-801 models have a declutch setting to allow for
an ultra smooth manual zoom setting.
The later models also have these improvements:
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A convex shape to the Lap Dissolve ("R") button to
make it easier to depress. - A cable release socket next to the "R" button
to allow for perfect dissolves for special effects without camera
movement. - Integration of the F-Stop display light path so it
can be seen in the viewfinder display without having to tilt
your eyes downward. - Addition of the Automatic "B" feature
which has a front mounted external photo cell, so that you can
set the camera to Automatic "B" to allow the meter
to determine the required timed exposure per frame in low light
from 1/10th second to 1 minute per frame... or set it to manual.
- Black knurled easier to grab & see knobs for the controls.
• The later "macro" versions have the addition
of macro close-up focusing lens elements, which also allow use
of the special NIZO Ultra wide-angle lens attachments. All other
features remain the same.
• Braun-NIZO S-480 Super 8mm cartridge loading camera:
model years: 1972-1974 (replaced in late 1974 by the S-481)
The S-480 has an 8mm - 48mm F/1.8 two-speed power zoom lens which
is non-macro... minimum focusing distance is about 5ft.
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The other FEATURES are:
1. 2-speed power zoom, touch two top front mounted zoom buttons lightly and
you get the low speed... depress them firmer and you get the higher speed.
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2. Smooth manual zoom, to switch to manual zoom, turn the black
front knurled ring at the base of the lens where it meets the
camera to the "0" position or "Man" position
(might be marked either depending on vintage of camera). The
zoom gearing disengages and allows a nice smooth manual zoom.
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3. VIEWFINDER DISPLAY:
• Aperture scale in viewfinder with over and under RED warning zones. You
have to tilt your eye to see the aperture display... it is almost impossible
to see the aperture display and the viewed image since they are on different
planes. This was changed to a simpler direct viewing on the replacement S-481
model in late 1974.
• The F/8 to F/16 range is also a battery check indicator. To check the
batteries... depress the slide switch on the side of the camera to the battery
check side and observe the needle. It should deflect to as least F/8... if not...
replace the batteries or recharge them (if using Ni-Cads). The Aperture settings
can be set manually by turning the chrome aperture control ring off the AUTO
setting and observing the needle in the viewfinder allowing it to come to rest
at the setting you desire. In the center of the aperture setting knob is a tiny
black button... this is for checking the light meter batteries (which are housed
separate from the motor batteries in a tiny chamber on the bottom of the camera;
have to move the folding pistol grip out of the way and use a nickel coin to
unscrew the compartment lid). When depressed momentarily, the needle will deflect
to at least F/8 if the batteries are okay; make sure you turn the camera's power
switch to ON first... by sliding it over... or the meter batteries won't power
up for the test. c. Film movement indicator: This is a red light at either the
top or bottom of the viewfinder that will glow steady if film is not moving (competed
cartridge or film jam), or will flicker at a steady rate relative to the running
speed set if film is advancing correctly.
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4. The CONTROL SIDE of the camera (the left side as you are
holding it) has all the main knobs on it. These are:
• Auto and manual aperture setting with meter battery test button.
• Intervalometer timer knob with range of zero, 1 frame every second down
to 1 frame every minute. Camera trigger has to be held in, or use cable release,
or use manual run lock switch on right side of camera (RED sliding knob).
• Main POWER switch, with OFF in center position, other two positions are
BATTERY CHECK (ONLY tests motor batteries), and ON position.
• Footage counter (counts in feet and meters amount of film used) Resets
to Zero when cartridge is removed... so if you remove an unfinished cartridge
to switch to a different film type... mark down how much footage is remaining
BEFORE you remove the cartridge... then write that figure down on the cartridge
label...so you can keep track next time you use that cartridge again.
• Red sliding VARIABLE SHUTTER LEVER: When forward... shutter is fully
open, when you slide it slowly backwards the shutter slowly closes and will affect
a FADE-OUT. If you hold it all the way back, then begin filming and slowly release
it to the front it will affect a FADE-IN. By moving it to the middle position
(half darkened circle setting) and then pulling it down so it locks into a small
detent... you can lock the shutter in the half closed setting, which increases
the shutter speed per frame by a factor of two, and will open the lens up if
set to AUTO exposure by 1-Stop. Useful for smoother fast action, or if you desire
less depth-of-field etc. By depressing a small black button at the end of the
fadeout range... you can move the lever into that position and then release that
button, and it will hold the lever in that position. This will LOCK the SHUTTER
FULLY OPEN. By doing this...you can make a timed exposure longer than normal
per frame. By using the time-lapse intervalometer, you can time the exposure
per frame from 1/10th second down to ONE-MINUTE PER FRAME! This means you can
film under a full moon with Kodachrome... believe it or not... however... when
doing this... you have to use a separate handheld light meter to determine your
correct exposure, also you'll have to lock the run lock switch or use a cable
release so the camera stays running continuously for the duration of your long
exposure filming session, and you'll want to use a tripod of course. Using this...
you can film highways at night... and get those nice long colorful streaks from
the car lights coming and going like in TV commercials etc.
• RUNNING RATE KNOB: This sets the camera's running speed to single frame,
18fps or 24fps. By depressing the center marked "54" button while operating
the camera, it will go into instant slow motion at 54fps, and the light meter
will compensate automatically as well.
• Power socket for operation with 9-volt external power pack.
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5. RIGHT CAMERA SIDE: is the secondary control
side of the camera with the following features:
• PILOTONE PULSE-SYNCH TERMINAL: A DIN socket, which will output both Pilotone
one pulse per every fourth frame and one pulse per frame with a built in synch
pulse generator that will record a signal on a corresponding tape recorder...
requires the synch plug unit, which is rare now to locate.
• ELECTRIC RELEASE SOCKET: By using a mini or micro jack connected to a
lead with a simple on-off switch you can use this electrical method of operating
the camera (requires the camera to be switched on, and set into the RUN-LOCK
mode... or trigger-set with a locked cable release).
• CABLE RELEASE SOCKET: Allows use of a conventional cable release for
mechanical release operation of the camera for either continuous, locked set
for timed filming, or single frame release mode.
• PC FLASH CONTACT: This allows connection of a conventional electronic
flash for single frame filming of artwork or animation etc. It can also be used
in conjunction with a pulse-synch generator to gain a reference rate of the camera's
running speed used for cable-synch double system sound filmmaking.
• RUN LOCK LEVER (RED): when moved forward it will trigger the camera mechanically
and leave it running continuously until it is set back again.
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6. TOP OF CAMERA:
• Front: two zoom buttons which are dual speed depending on whether depressed
lightly or firmly.
• Rear: Round black button with an "R" on it. This is the lap
dissolve button. When filming, if you depress this button, it will automatically
run a fadeout using the variable shutter (done internally), and then allow the
camera to rewind the film to the first frame at which the fadeout began. To commence
the second part of the lap dissolve, you just begin filming and the camera will
automatically fade in for you. The lap dissolve system in mechanically interlocked
with the variable shutter, so you can only do lap dissolves, not superimpositions
(double-exposures). The frame fade-in/out rate using the lap dissolve is 64 frames
(approximately 4 seconds at 18fps or 3 seconds at 24fps).
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7. BACK OF CAMERA:
• Adjustable diopter viewfinder with split-image rangefinder. To set correctly,
exactly measure a distance of 10ft from a wall to the camera set on a tripod
with the lens set at 10ft. Tape some newsprint or material on the wall for clarity.
Measure from the wall to the focal plane on the camera (small film plane symbol;
a circle with a line thru it on the right side of the camera) using a measuring
tape for accuracy. Adjust viewfinder diopter control until image is clear and
the split-image rangefinder is evenly matched. Depending on your eyesight...
you'll have to meet a slight compromise on clarity of the rangefinder halves
being lined up.
• Cartridge loading door. Move small lever downward and cartridge door
will swing downward allowing you to load or unload the film. The cartridge will
automatically index the light meter to the film speed. The metering system is
indexed by the cartridge meter-indexing notch... and is from a range of ASA 25
to ASA 400.
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8. BOTTOM OF CAMERA:
• Under the swing away pistol grip is the meter battery chamber (2-PX13
or PX625A cells for the light meter)
• Pointed chrome electrical contacts for the battery chamber box. Camera
will only work with pistol grip in the closed position or there's no battery
contact.
• Tripod socket (1/4inch x 20 thread pitch socket) |
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Du-All Camera.
231 West 29th Street. Suite 210. New York, NY 10001.
Phone# 212-643-1042
Fax# 212-643-9335
Email: duall529@aol.com |
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